Thursday, March 19, 2015

Part II: Grandfathers' 1930 Hobo Trek

Part 2:
 
Wed. night 9:30   A little better luck this afternoon.  My first ride this afternoon was with two young men from Michigan, on their way to Las Vegas in an Essex car that threatened to spill itself any moment.  Suffice it to say that it was a 1923 Essex.  After numerous punctures we finally made it to within 10 miles of Filmore when after several convulsive sheep jumps it quit altogether.  The driver coasted it into the borrow pit, after closing all adjustments he straightened in his seat and fervently uttered Utah’s advertising slogan.  From a mile up the highway I looked back and saw with much satisfaction that the car was pretty close to the place that I had been shiriking (?)  all afternoon. it should be in just then a car slowed down and was taken to Kanosh by Seth and in the Kanosh jungles I am writing this at 10 p.m. By the light of a jungle fire, and like Omar Kayam, I feel to say “A jug of wine and thow exerit paradise e-now”.  We passed through historic Filmore, saw the old state house that served as Utah’s first state capitol and on which the state last year spent $10000.00 for repairs to keep it as a landmark and relic; the dwelling houses also show designing of an early period, many of them being constructed of homemade brick.  The scenes experiences and impressions during this evening will long be remembered. 



The solitude is inspiring, not a sound but the rippling waters of the creek beside me, the dying embers of the fire as the midnight hours approach.  How like life the fire dies for want refueling, yet the creek from an endless source babbles on and like emerald settings, the lowing of cattle in the distance, the babbling brook make me wonder with the scientist Bock, “What is light and what is sound?” I wonder where I’ll be tomorrow night?

 

Thursday morning 10:00 a.m. I have covered five miles since high fast, my feet ache so much that I’m going to sit here until a car comes.  Out here on the desert there aren’t many cars passing.  I’ve heard it said by hikers that one car in every hundred is a fair average of the motorist who will pick up hikers, the arid desolation which surrounds me almost makes me exclaim with Satan “Is this the region, the clime that we must trade for realms sublime, Hail! Horrors, Hail! Thou profoundest hell, receive thy new possessor!” To one who never saw anything different this would be a beautiful country if one had only some means of transportations, one must look at so much to see anything and with out transportat, one sees then a lot of nothing; I imagine one would get frightfully bored if traveling with the speed of lightening over this forsaken era.

This drizzling rain is getting to be just a triffleng disagreeable and monotonous.  I’m glad that I can’t forsee each coming day in advance or Las Vegas would loose patience in my delayed coming.

 

Hitchiking could be systemized much to the advantage of the hikers if the above average was strictly maintained. It being understood that every 100th car must pick up all the hikers they meet.  The hiker then would choose some convenient spot and by the process of counting tell just when to arise and board his transportation.

 

Thurs. 3:30 p.m. The same two boys whom I left yesterday at Filmore pick me up about 10 miles back.  The first thing was a flat, and now we are sitting in the car 25 miles north of Beaver with another flat, the rain is falling in torrents, the boys have no patches, so there is no telling when we will move again, it won’t be at least until we can hail a passing car and mutch (mooch) some patching rubber.

 

Thursday night 9:00 p.m.  I have just come in soaked to the skin after a 9 mile walk thru the rain.  We finally mutched some patching rubber and got the Essex moving once more, but every mile or so something went wrong and one of us would have to get out and crank the car after adjustments had been made, we were 3 hours going 20 miles, during all this time the rain fell and all of us were wet, at last the carburetor ceased working altogether and my two young friends decided to leave to the mercy of the pilfering public: they however intend sleeping in it tonight but will abandon it in the morning, as there was not room for three of us to sleep there it seems my place to vacate, which I did during a lull in the rain, however it was soon raining as hard as ever and continued til I reached a light in the clearing 3 hrs. later.  A more disagreeable trip I have never undertaken in my life, I had walked but a short distance until I was wet through the water sloughed in my shoes and my wet corduroys slaped (sic) my wet legs. The wind was in my face and was cold enough to have been blown right from a snow bank.

 

Car after car went by me not withstanding my signaling, I think my conscience would suffer were I to honk for a man to get out of the road in a desert country 15 miles from the nearest town, and in a down pour of rain.  Never did up in shelter and the prospect of dry clothes seem so good as tonight and now that it is all a matter of history I look upon it as the outstanding experience from the stand of misery, hunger and cold.  This house is occupied by 4 or 5 cow men and thank God they were here.  I wonder where I will be tomorrow night?

 

Fri 3:30 Well here I am at Anderson’s Ranch 33 miles (s or n) of Cedar City, had good luck today in getting a ride.  I wonder where I will be tonight?

 

7 p.m.  Supper is over, I met up with the two boys again and we are camped on a creek 15 miles east of St. George.  There is plenty of wood, so I will at least keep warm, although the climate is much warmer than the country north of Cedar City, yet the nights are getting cooler.  We have but one little frying pan on which to fry bacon and potatoes which one of the boys bumed (sic) from a nearby farm house.  9:30 p.m. Supper is over and the beds of dry weeds are made, how much better a person feels and how ones spirits rise when the appetites has been satisfied.There is a beautiful moon shining, the air is still as I lay me down to sleep. 

 

Sat 7:30 a.m. Another full stomach of bacon, fried potatoes, bread and coffee, we also have shaved, the air is warm and optimism prevails.  The country around here is quite different to any that I have been in.  The little hamlets are built along the creeks and then there will be rocky desert between there and the next creek.  Well I must be goin, I wonder what time I will be in St. G.

10:30 a.m. St. George at last it almost seems that my journey is over.  Coming into St. G this morning the first site to greet my gaze was the temple dome in Pure White, a truly inspiring sight, sitting on a hill as it is clad in its white coat.  As I was sitting here to begin my writing and old village settler stopped beside and began plying me with the usual questions where from, where to, etc. He told me that the man who picked me up was caught making liquor and was now in court, even the natives here seemingly have their troubles.  Some Indians have just driven up in a Buick Sedan all dressed up in calico and Levis five of them, one of the squaws has a papoose on her back and as they go up the street I fail to hear the usual “here carry this baby aways”. 

(That statement comes from the point that MOST Mormon wives had several children, one right after the other and apparently Grandfather had heard that request as well).

Many of the buildings here are of adobe and earlier design rather than most of the younger cities with their new buildings.  All the old timers are typical of frontier people who have not been much in the cities.

 
Mon. Morn 11 a.m. The two jungle stiffs with whom I have been cooking up the last three days have each just returned from an expedition among the house wives in this end of St. G., laden with vitals of all kinds, these two men are here for the winter and will so live until their exodus north in the spring.  At night a big fellow “Blackie Welsh” or “Oklahoma Blackie” came into the jungles for a muligan, under one arm he carried a soup bone, from a nearby field potatoes, onions, carrots and corn were selected and all hands some 6 or 7 began preparations for a muligan.  After the wrinkles were fairly welled smoothed out, Blackie entertained with some of his experiences which included a crap shooting of several times with Monte Blue, whom he eulogized as a good scout, drinking gambling and all, always good for a feed, a movie acting experience with Anita Stewart, also a liberal spender, Blackie it seems is known from Denver to L.A. as a dealer and is on his way to Vegas to deal Farobank.
 
 

Tues. Oct. 8-6:30 a.m.  Yesterday I went out to the dumping ground in search of a “jungle” stove and while there came across several gallon cans of fruit which I boiled over and after sugaring put it in bottles all so found on the dump.  Murphy the Jungle chief entertained by relating his history or part of it, from his talk he has been a brave man; among other things, I learned what guts in salesmanship had it’s origin among just such men as inhabit Jungles because of pure laziness, (sale of Glasses) such salesmen as much in evidence today in the sale of magazines, brushes, etc.
 
Wed. 8  7:00 a.m. Breakfast is over which calls for the greatest effort and meal making takes the most time and work as the work is practically over as soon as the meal is over, dusting, sweeping, righting furniture ect. is eliminated by this more simple means of living; imagine being thru with all household duties as soon as the meal is over.  Murphy has just left on a foraging expedition which he figured will take him an hour and from which he will derive a weeks worth of living if necessary but as Murphy craved a few extra delicacies the expedition was made a few days in advance of actual needs.
The required extras today were poultry products, rice, flavoring and raisins, of course, anything that can be eaten will be excepted, but delicacies he must have and if not included in the housewifes varied giving those commodities most desired will be procured in this manner “Good morning Sister, Mother or Grandma (according to appearance of age) I have a sick friend over in the grove who is just getting over pneumonia, his stomach is still weak, we were on our way west when he was taken sick, I would like to get a chicken for him if you have one, for myself I can eat almost anything that will give me but he must have more delicate things like chicken, rice pudding, so just include some sugar and flavoring yes times are tough, there is little or no work for a man my age (55) no one wants to hire men that age.  “Chop some wood? Well lady, I’d be only too glad to chop up everything in the yard if it weren’t for my friend waiting for me to hurry back.  I really hate to bum like this but having a sick man on my hands takes all my spare time but I’ll come back tomorrow and chop some for you.  Yes I hope he soon gets better it’s hard on me to have to take care of him and rustle nice things for him”.
Back in “jungles” again.  “Good hell, I had more dam trouble getting a dam little bit of grub than any day I’ve been out yet, hell you’d think some of these grease balls (housewifes) was hard up the way they hang on to what little they give you.  I wish I was down in San Pete, them women there can’t give you enough, yesir old man you jist sit right down while I fix you something, eggs, ham, bacon.
 
Wed. Oct. 9.  My galley supplies are at low ebb and I am confronted by the necessity of foraging or start for Salt Lake.  If those two Jungle bucks can live year in and year out on the generosity of St. Georges “housewifes”, I surely ought to be able to “pan” them for a little at least when I intend offering some work in return, the question is should I go now or wait until tomorrow I still have a little now that the time draws near to go on my first foraging expedition.  I feel just a wee but like postponing if for awhile, well nothing attempted nothing gained.  So here goes.
 
Later---well, that wasn’t so bad, mostly the housewives here seem to be human and so sympathetic as any other part of the world.  I selected a street and walked nearly to the end of it before I could muster enough courage to face a door and make my errand known, seeing three women in earnest conversation I started toward them, half turned in retreat but finally made for them in a forceful stride asking which of them would like to have me chop some wood for something to eat, in well chosen tones they all informed me that had men folks around, not knowing what next (to) do as I had not rehearsed any parts in case of rejection I assumed much astonishment and congratulated them on the feat and slunk towards the nearest exit: three blocks further on I was successful and the wood pile groaned under my onslaught.  Back in camp taking stock of my handout I found a loaf of well made home spun bread, about an ounce of tea, 2 eggs, 3 slices of bacon, a two ounce jar of pomegranate jelly, a pound of sugar, an ounce of salt, and 8 or ten pomegranates.
 
St. George Sat. 9 or 10th. The last 2 days have been rainy and unsettled.  Yesterday morning we stood around in the jungles waiting for the rain to stop but by the time it did stop we were wet thru.  Water was in our jungles the wood was wet and depression generally prevailed.  About noon it stopped and we all preceded to jungle up and dry out.  Last night Shorty and I walked a mile to an empty shack back in the hills, it was dry and it contained among other things several pieces of dry clothing and a camp cot.  Considering the clothing I had I should have slept warmly but I awoke often with a chill and was glad when morning came even tho it rained until nearly ten oclock.  The roads were mudy and when we readied the jungles our feet were soaking wet, but this was forgotten when we had eaten.  My grub was getting low this morning that is some things I was short of.  I went out in town and offered to work for something to eat; the three days that I have been out since coming here have been very profitable, each house gave me enough for several days; today I went out (after supplication) and it is striking how I  wound around and finally was led to the house of Bp. (Bishop) Worthe when I was given
nearly a qt of honey, a dozen nice tomatoes, 7 potatoes, 6 eggs, about 3 lbs of beans, part of a loaf of bread- 2 pomegranate besides being invited in to sit down at the table which I did.  What am I going to do with this blessing of food.  I don’t know, I have no need of begging any more food; my success today has been impressive and a great manifestation, I wonder when I shall be impressed to leave?  I would like to hear from home before I go.  I’m also wondering where I will eventually stop.
 
Sun. Oct. 12.  Breakfast is over and with the chores all done I can settle down to enjoy the Sabbath.  The jungle stiffs now in number are boiling up in preparation of traveling for “traveling” tomorrow or Tuesday by which time most of us now will be miles apart in various directions, Murphy however will be here to keep the home fires burning for us, and ventures the prophecy that we will all be back again inside a year which is undoubtedly true, Murphy is exhorting the men to remember this is the Sabbath himself emphasizing it with an oath.  He has just finished telling in very detail the principals of the mormon religion which is characteristic of most jungle birds.  Murphy has traveled widely and is not to be disputed on any question.  He is a busy man, when not eating he is making preparations to do so or else up in town rustling food of which he usually has his pack sack full.  It is a peculiar fact even tho in a jest the religious instincts of many men assert themselves even among such as these and much reverence and respect is seen and heard.  Among the 5 here assembled are two professed catholics, 1 baptist, (himi-tarian; something Grandfather Leon wrote) and 1 mormon.  All are high in their praise of the mormon people and communities.  My stay here among this gathering of derelicts has been interesting and I shall miss them when I move on tomorrow or Tues.  I have beans on cooking and must mend my coat sleeve.  Murphy is reading an account of the opening session of the L.W.S. Conference from the Salt Lake Telegram, all 5 present are listening attentively without comment at the conclusion it was plain that all were thinking, and finding that I was a mormon I was plied with really intelligent questions.  My beans are ready and I am hungry.  That was really a sumptuous repast, bread, butter, tomatoes, peach pickles and tea: it is 4 p.m and the sun is shining warmly we are all sitting in our shirt sleeves; as I look away from the jungles I see the bushes laden with drying clothes  it will soon be time to gather them in as it is pitch dark at 6 p.m. and alight doesn’t come until 6 A.m---
 
5 P.m. I am writing this on a high cliff over looking St. George from the North West.  The country round about is a series of irregular plateaus, so red in color even in the valleys that one wonders that anything grows without fertilization.  The little towns here about are built where ever a stream is found, these streams many of them gush right out of the Mts of red sandstone.  Below me stretches the winding highway on past Santa Clara the last town and stream before going into the desert.
 
Wed. Oct. 15—made a $1.55 yesterday soliciting scisors and knives, have made $1.00 up until noon today in this manor I get first hand information concerning this country, which because of its isolation from railroads is quite different from those nearer the R.R.



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